Winter Draught-Proofing: Stop Heat Loss at the Source

Draughts aren't random. They follow specific paths through your home. The biggest culprits? Door frames and window edges account for roughly 40% of heat loss in poorly sealed homes. Letterboxes, keyholes, and extractor fans aren't sexy to talk about, but they're serious gaps. Pipes that pass through exterior walls, gaps between skirting boards and walls, even small cracks around electrical outlets — they all add up.

You'll find most draughts concentrated in three zones. First, the ground floor — cold air sinks and creeps in under doors and through floorboards. Second, around windows where frames have shifted or seals have degraded. Third, anywhere you've got penetrations through exterior walls — that's where pipes, cables, and vents create natural channels for cold air.

Weatherstripping tape is where most people start. It's cheap, it's effective, and you'll see results immediately. You're looking at foam tape or rubber strips that stick directly to the frame. Self-adhesive foam works best on wooden frames because it compresses slightly when the door closes. Rubber is better for metal frames because it doesn't compress as much over time.

Installation takes maybe 15 minutes per door. Clean the frame thoroughly — dust and debris stop the adhesive from bonding. Measure the perimeter, buy slightly more than you think you'll need (better to have extra), and stick it on. Don't skimp on corners. That's where most draughts sneak through. Expect to pay between €5 and €15 per door. You'll notice the difference within a day — less noise, less cold air, noticeably warmer rooms.

The bottom of the door is where most heat escapes. You can lose more warmth through that 1cm gap than you'd expect. Threshold strips solve this. They're metal or plastic channels that fit into the bottom of the door frame and create a seal when the door closes. Brush-style draught excluders are the traditional option — they're affordable and they work. Silicone-based seals are more modern and last longer, but cost a bit more.

Measure your door width carefully. Most thresholds come in standard widths, but some doors need custom fitting. Installation usually means removing the old threshold if there is one, then screwing in the new one. It's straightforward work, maybe 20 minutes. If your door swings both ways or you've got thick carpeting, you might need a bevelled threshold so it doesn't catch. Don't cheap out here — this is where you'll get the fastest payback. One good threshold can reduce heat loss by 10% on its own.

Weatherstripping handles moving parts. Sealant handles permanent gaps. Those cracks between your window frame and wall, gaps around pipes that go through exterior walls, spaces where skirting board meets the wall — these all need sealant. Silicone-based sealant is flexible and lasts longer than acrylic, which matters because buildings move. You want something that'll flex with temperature changes, not crack and fail.

Work's straightforward if you've got patience. Cut the sealant tube at a 45-degree angle, apply steady pressure, and smooth with a wet finger. It sounds simple, and it is, but rushed work looks messy. Take your time. Sealant stays visible, so it's worth doing properly. One tube costs about €3 and covers maybe 10 metres. You'll probably need 3-4 tubes for a typical house. Wait 24 hours before exposing to weather.